This could be the result of a few issues.

1.  If you have a filtration system with a sediment filter after your pressure tank, your sediment filter may be clogged and needs to be replaced.

2.  Your pump, whether submersible or jet pump, may be old and weak.  This means you may need to replace your pump.

3.  The connections on your pressure switch may not be functioning properly, this may require replacement of your pressure switch.

4.  We have seen low water pressure caused by blocked aerators, which is at each of your faucets.

Jet Pump

A jet pump is a pump that is most likely inside your house or cottage in your basement, crawl space or utility room.  The jet pump draws water from your well or from the lake through a suction pipe that contains a foot valve at the end.

There are 2 types of jet pumps, a shallow well and a deep well pump.  Shallow well jet pumps suction water from a well as deep as 25 feet.  Deep well jet pumps are used for wells up to 200 feet.  However, deep well jet pumps are not commonly used anymore, we recommend using a submersible pump for wells greater than 25 feet of depth.

Typical components to a jet pump system are:

1.  Foot valve - this is required to keep the pump primed allowing water to flow in, but keeps the water from flowing back out.

2.  Poly line - typically 75 psi rated.

3.  Jet pump - these can vary in horse power depending on how far the water source is away from the pump.

4.  Pressure tank - this is used to "hold water" and allows your pump to work easier and also maintains a consistent water pressure within your house or cottage.

5.  Pressure tank tee kit - includes a sediment faucet, a pressure relief valve, a 0-100 pressure gauge, and a main water shut off valve on the house side of the tee.

5. Low water cut off switch - this is a great back up to protect your pump in case you get a split in the water line, or faulty foot valve, which results in loss of prime.  Without a low water cut off switch, you can risk burning your pump out.

6.  Pressure switch - typically 30 / 50 psi, the pressure switch tuns the pump on and off as it reaches each of the low and high pressure.

Submersible Pump

The submersible pump is either set under the water within the lake or down inside your well.  Submersible pumps come in varying horse power depending on how far the water needs to pump to get into your house or cottage.  The submersible pump pushes water vs it's counterpart, the jet pump, which sucks water.

With a submersible pump, a wire will need to be run from the house or cottage to the pump to power the pump.

Components of a submersible pump installation:

1.  Submersible pump - this is a pump that is fully submerged in your well or lake.

2.  Pump stand - required for lake / cottage uses.  The pump stand is needed to keep the pump off the floor of the lake which reduces the amount of sediment and debris the pump can get exposed to.

3.  Pump wire - this is needed to power the pump and will be submerged under water as well. 

4.  Control box - this may or may not be needed depending on the brand of pump you have. Some pumps have the control box built in.  The control box is located inside the house or cottage and is where the wire for the pump gets tied into.

No!  Read this before spending money on your next heat line.

There are many different types of heat lines available.  This discussion is around potable water heat lines, which means the heat line you would use in the water for drinking or general water within your home or cottage.

Some heat lines are continuously on when plugged in and use an exterior thermostat to regulate temperature.  This type of heat line is not energy efficient and is based on old technology.  The installation of this type of heat line can be either on the exterior of your water pipe, or interior with a single probe outside to measure temperature.

Wright's Plumbing only uses "Heat Line Freeze Protection" products for potable water.  The technology for this type of heal trace is self-regulating along the entire line, which means it only heats up in areas where it detects heat is needed.  The heat output increases and decreases depending on external temperature.

This type of heat line is also installed inside the water pipe, which allows for pipe insulation around the exterior of the pipe adding to increased savings on electrical costs to maintain running water throughout the winter months.

If your water enters your house or cottage above the frost line, you will need to install a heat line in order to prevent freezing. Also, if any point in the path between the water source and entry to your home or cottage is above the frost line, this would also require a heat line to prevent your water from freezing during the winter months.

If you are looking to use your water during the winter, it's highly advisable to go the route of using a heat line.  With a heat line, you can be confident that your water line will not freeze when using this product if installed properly and with insulated pipes.

A drain back system is a more economical method sometimes used for winter water at a cottage, however there is a higher risk of encountering freezing with this type of solution.